Alarm system sensors windows

Glass break detectors are used to "listen" for the sound of breaking glass. These devices are great protection for windows in a home or business and add an extra tier of protection when used with perimeter contacts and motion detectors. Glass break detectors active when the sound of glass flexing Two wire and four wire varieties can be used with any hardwired alarm system. Two wire smokes use just two wires for data and power and must all be ran on the same run.

Four wire smokes use separate two wire pairs for power and zone data and can be separated on their own zones. All of the hardwire Heat detectors are used to detect heat instead of smoke. Heat detectors are recommended for fire protection in areas where naturally occurring smoke or fumes would cause a false alarm with a regular smoke detector. It also lets out a banshee like scream. Skip to main content. International Customers. United States United Kingdom.

Login Create Account Contact. Fulltext search. Standalone Home Alarms. Alarms without the extra fees. Showing products 1 - 9 of An Alarm for Every Lifestyle A home security alarm for every lifestyle. Do you know what caused this? I turned off the power, and it took a few hours, but the same thing started up again. Answer: Sounds as if the alarm is in some form of polling mode, checking all the zones. Sorry, I don't know what could be causing this, so it's best to call an alarm service technician to resolve the problem.

What can I do? Answer: If the PIR is wired, it could be due to loss of voltage caused by a blown fuse, loose connection or broken wire. On a wireless system, the battery may simply be flat although I would think your panel should indicate this. Question: We have an existing Pyronix alarm panel. Is it OK to use an external sounder from a different manufacturer? I like the look of an external sounder from Texecom, because it is IP65, rather than IP44 and the box is exposed to prevailing weather.

I have already replaced PIRs and door contacts, no problem. Kind regards Lindsay. Answer: There shouldn't be an issue and most sounders run on 12 volts. Connections can be slightly different between panel and sounder, but often a wiring diagram comes with the sounder showing how it should be connected to different panels. The people on the UK security installers forum were very helpful, knowing more about the details of different systems than I do and I got advice from them on how to connect my new sounder a couple of years ago.

Question: Hi, an alarm sensor in my dining room was noisy. It sounded like dial-up internet, so I removed the front box and pulled the red wire out. I'm guessing it was the power wire. Is this dangerous? Answer: It sounds odd. Sensors are normally powered by six core cable, one pair for 12 volts power, one pair for the alarm contacts and the remaining pair for tamper.

However, this cable is light gauge. The red may be power if it's an old installation in the UK old power cable cores were red and black for live and neutral respectively.

Might be a good idea to get an alarm installer or electrician to check it out. Question: Spring switch appears to be operating ok. How do you get rid of a tamper lid fault?

Answer: If the system is wired and you have a single tamper loop, the fault could occur at any of the sensors or junction boxes on the loop or the sounder. If there's an individual tamper for each zone, this narrows things down. Check the spring is being pushed down entirely and isn't being pushed awkwardly off to one side when the lid closes. Check wires are pushed fully into terminals and they are screwed down tight.

Junction boxes usually have springy metal contacts that implement the tamper. A piece of plastic on the lid pushes the contacts together when the lid is replaced.

Make sure there are no wires in the way preventing the lid from sitting properly on the box. If your alarm identifies which sensor is causing the problem and you have a multimeter, you can remove the tamper wires from the screw terminals and check that the meter indicates continuity when the switch is closed.

Question: The alarm went off and the keypad was completely dead. It stopped after about 10 minutes and the pad and all the sensors are dead, but the input light is on at the power supply. Is it a fuse problem or what? Question: As soon as I enter my house, the alarm goes off; there's no time to disable it. Why does this happen? Answer: The settings may have become corrupted on the alarm.

Usually these are set in engineer mode on the panel. Consult the manual for the panel to see what codes you have to enter to change the entry time, and also set the zone for the external door as a walk through zone if necessary. Answer: You can exclude it when arming your alarm. If it's an external door, you won't, of course, get an audible countdown warning when you enter through that doorway. Question: The external bell on my alarm is not working, but the internal one is.

How do you fix the external bell? Answer: It could be a fault with the wiring going to the bell if it's wired. However, it's more likely to be due to a fault in the bell possibly caused by moisture ingress. Question: When I key my code into the keypad and leave the house by the front door, the alarm sounds for 20 seconds and then turns off.

But now, the alarm goes off indefinitely. Once I open the door to enter the house, the alarm goes off, and I can turn it off as usual. What is the problem? Where is the 12V battery? If the exit tone goes off indefinitely, that means the contact on the door may be working intermittently and should be replaced. Question: Hi I have an SI compact alarm in the house and for no apparent reason the attack led is lit and nothing is responding on the keypad.

Any ideas how to resolve this problem without having to call someone out? Answer: Some large style panic buttons need to be manually returned to the un-pushed-in state with a key. Check whether you have one of these in the house and if so reset it. If you have any other type of panic device, it may need to be reset before resetting the panel.

I'm not sure whether this is the model of your alarm, but if it has inadvertently gone into alarm test mode the attack led blinks when it is in this mode , pressing reset twice exits test mode and program mode.

Answer: In a wired alarm system, a pair of cores in the cable connecting sensors to the control panel is used for tamper. If the cable is cut by a burglar to prepare for a subsequent break in, the panel will issue an audible or visual warning, even if the system isn't armed. Sensors, bell boxes, junction boxes, auxiliary sounders, keypads and other devices are normally provided with miniature tamper switch contacts that open when the devices have their lids or covers removed.

The tamper pair of wires in the 6 core cable is also connected to tamper terminals in each device these terminals connected to the tamper switches.

If a device is opened, the tamper circuit opens and triggers a warning or sets off the alarm, if it's armed. Question: We have reed switches at the doors, what is the possibility of hot or cold temperatures to cause them to make a false alarm?

Answer: Possibly expansion and contraction of the tiny metal strips in the reeds as the temperature changes could cause false alarms. Another possibility is that the magnet and switch are too far apart. Usually, the gap shouldn't be more than 1cm or whatever the manufacturers recommend.

If the gap is too great, the switch may be only barely held closed and any temperature changes or vibration could shake it open. The reed may also be faulty or low quality. I've had to replace lots of contacts, mostly on windows that were only rarely opened.

So they seem to "stick" if not "exercised". Question: My alarm went off and now shows that something is wrong in zone 3, the main level of my home. I opened all the windows and reclosed them, but can not get the alarm to come back on. Ay suggestions? Answer: If it's a wireless alarm, it could be that the batteries are flat in one of the sensors. However, your panel should tell you this. Any recent renovations could also have upset the wiring.

Question: I have a hard-wired alarm system with a Napco RPe keypad. It has been working fine for over 18 years. The other day, the alarm keypad alarm was sounding, while showing a code 11 on the screen. I was able to get the alarm to stop but now the code is 8, and I can't activate the alarm.

Any idea how I can fix this? Question: When the alarm is activated e. This just started a few days ago. Any thoughts as to why and where I should start looking at the issue? Answer: It does sound as though there could be an issue with loose connections in the sensor, wiring, junction boxes, etc. Is the sensor wired and definitely on its zone, and not looped in series with window contacts or shock sensors?

Contacts can go open circuit if the magnet is mounted too far away or has gone weak or the reed switch is faulty, and there's vibration. I would try covering the sensor with something to shield it so that it doesn't pick up body heat e. Then try tapping the case of the sensor to see if it triggers. The tamper switch on the PCB may not be held tightly closed with the cover in place.

I had an issue like this with my system and tapping the PIR triggered an alarm. It turned out that the little piece of rubber on the front part of the sensor didn't push tightly down on the microswitch with the front replaced. Question: I have a Scorpion Z6 alarm installed I want to repaint the bell housing which is rusted.

How do I turn off the tamper alarm to remove the cover? Answer: I can't find a manual for this specific alarm, but if I'm doing any maintenance on my bell or panel, I tie up the tamper spring. This spring usually makes contact with the cover of the bell and pushes against a microswitch on the PCB and keeps it closed. I use a piece of wire or string and tie it to any convenient hole, projecting a piece of plastic or similar in the housing. Sometimes I use a crocodile clip or clothes peg and clip this onto an edge and tie the wire to this.

Question: I only have six sensors installed on my burglar alarm, but tonight a seventh sensor went off three times. In the end, I deleted that sensor. How is the alarm doing that? The monitor service has been terminated for several years. Recently I armed the system, but opening the door won't trigger the alarm. When I tested the door, I can hear a chime. The keypad shows a low battery.

Could this be the reason why I can't set up the alarm? Answer: Sensors can be temperamental and get stuck sometimes.

Try tapping the door sensor if it doesn't trigger the alarm to see if this is the case. Question: Our Veritas R8 alarm kept going off with the tamper light on. I replaced it with a new one. Now I cannot put it into Unset Mode. Each time I put my code in, the keypad only has the Unset light on. As soon as one of the sensors are activated, the alarm goes off even though it was under. I cannot get it to go into unset mode. Answer: Sounds like there's a problem with tamper on a sensor or a tamper core in the cable if the alarm is wired.

Question: I recently terminated my land line. Now my burglar alarm shows a problem with the phone lines. How do I bypass my burglar alarm? Answer: If you can find a programming guide for your alarm, you may be able to disable monitoring for a phone line in the settings.

Question: I have an optima g4 alarm and have zone 1 set on a chime for entry-exit. Do you have any ideas? Answer: I can't answer questions on specific models because there's just so many variations, however in general, this could be an issue with the sensor magnet becoming weak on the door, a faulty sensor on the door frame, loose connections in wiring, low batteries if the alarm is wireless and an aging backup battery in the control panel.

Probably best to get a service technician to check out the system and possibly replace the sensor. Apparently the alarm has a second dual-ply timer that delays the external sounder activating for 30 seconds after the internal sounder activates if you don't enter the correct password after entering..

The idea of the internal sounder activating first is to scare away potential burglars trying to enter a code, and the delay is so that genuine people have an additional 30 seconds to get it right before the external sounder activates and disturbs the neighbours. This timer is enabled by default. The manual shows you how to disable it. So just try not putting in the code and see if the sounder activates after this period. There's probably an option in the settings in the engineer menu where you can specify whether the internal sounder in the panel or a separate device indoors or the external sounder or both activate for that zone.

I notice that zone 2 can be set for normal alarm or as an entry route. By "entry route", I think they mean what I call a walk through zone. So for instance if the side door contact is on zone 1 and is activated first by opening a door and the PIR is on zone 2 and it is triggered next if it picks you up when you enter , the alarm doesn't activate.

But if if the PIR is activated first, it triggers an alarm straight away. Another thing is that the part set alarm response can be set to full alarm or internal sounder.

However there doesn't appear to be an option to apply this option to specific zones. If the PIR is triggered ie someone has entered the garage by the up and over door then both the control panel and the external bell will ring. I am pleased to say that the alarm problem is now resolved. Hi James. Possibly faulty sensors, loose connections or low batteries on wireless sensors. The panel may should give an indication of low battery power either as a notification or from within the menu.

If the zones include contacts, magnets may be too far away from the contacts. The alarm can be set now and otherwise operates as it ought to. Albeit I do expect the fault to return. The alarm panel itself has been replaced recently and is new. The intermittent fault was also there when the old panel was installed albeit it was 30 years old and needed updating.

Therefore I will check all that you have suggested next week. Hopefully that will resolve matters.. Unless the cable has been physically damaged by renovations or whatever, I'd be more likely to suspect bad connections. A short on the cable or overload from a bad sensor would pull the voltage down all the way to the panel. I doubt whether the 12 Check the voltage at the junction box before you remove the cables and examine the the connections there to see if they're ok.

Don't forget also to check the return ground at the panel and junction box also. The drop could be on this line.

Thanks Eugene for your very prompt reply. If that does not work then the next step would be to suspect that the cable itself on that cable run is faulty. Would that make sense to you? When an intruder tries to open the doors or windows of your building, the alarm will be activated. The loud noise generated from the alarm can cause the thief to panic and not proceed further into your building. These sensors help you to have peace of mind at night, on weekends, or if you are traveling abroad.

When an alarm is activated, you or the security company will receive a notification. Then you can ensure that proper security measures will be taken in case of a burglary. Move physical security to the cloud. Learn about smart alarms systems with our guide. The Nest Detect Sensor is easy to install — you only need to stick the sensor on your doors or windows. Ring is a well-known brand for providing smart access and security solutions that are suitable for small businesses.

This sensitive motion-detecting sensor is easily installed. It sends you mobile notifications if intruders are breaking into your building. The Samsung SmartThings door or window sensor detects when a door or window is opened and alerts you. This is very useful for notifying you about a potential burglary at your business premises. The Aeotec Recessed Door Sensor is excellent for businesses as it is compatible with multiple systems and can trigger automatic security protocols.

This sensor has 4 volume settings and 52 alert tones, allowing you to set different alert tones for different areas in your building. It offers an integrated LED light alert for people who have auditory impairments and it detects movement with a range of feet.